Chasing Waterfalls and History the “Superior” Way
The northeast corner of California features breathtaking natural beauty in a relaxed, uncrowded environment. The tourism people call it “Northern California” or the “Shasta Cascade Wonderland” region, which sounds like a soft drink. I prefer the old name of “Superior California” which refers to the area on the map it occupies, and also implies that it’s better than the rest of the state. You will find friendly people who live an unhurried life and will stop and chat.
The area first rose to prominence when British fur trappers extended their reach southward from Oregon. They followed a series of Native American paths and called it the Siskiyou Trail. Today, I-5 follows much of the same tour from California to Oregon. With cascading rivers, wide-open spaces for ranches and farms, hundreds of square miles of forest, and mineral rich mountains the area’s economy developed by harnessing natural resources and it reflects that past today.
Redding is the titular capital city of the region that is well known as an outdoorsman’s paradise. While it is a fisherman and hikers’ dream, the area is also accessible to people who enjoy easy day hikes and scenic drives, peppered with an evolving culinary scene and many old-school restaurant that serve heaping portions of classic American fare.
Redding’s an eight-hour drive from Los Angeles and about three and a half hours from the San Francisco Bay Area. Air service is available but pricey, and locals advise flying into Reno or Sacramento and renting a car. Amtrak’s Coast Starlight passenger train serves travelers with more time on their hands. As you approach Redding you catch glimpses of 14,179 foot Mt. Shasta gleaming in the distance.
A good place to get oriented is the California Welcome Center, 1699 Hwy. 273, in Anderson, 10 miles south of Redding just a few minutes off I-5 in the south end of the Shasta Gateway Center. It’s open all year from 11am – 4pm. The staff is knowledgeable and can give you maps and directions to sites within the “Wonderland” area and update you on the latest travel conditions, which can change frequently in this rugged area.
The biggest issue in visiting Redding is the summer temperature. The Sacramento region, although also hot in the summer, benefits from the cooling delta breeze. That breeze does not make its way north, so Redding’s summer temps are often above 100 degrees. In recent years forest fires that have closed access to and forced evacuations from campgrounds and enveloped it in smoke have affected the region. This best time to visit the area is from March to May or in the autumn from mid-September to November.
With a population of 180,000, Redding is home to major medical centers that give it a strong economic base and many cultural amenities. The city boasts numerous quality restaurants and bars. Legendary is Jack’s Bar & Grill downtown. Founded in 1938 and little changed, it offers thick steaks and strong drinks that reflect the region’s “Wild West” history of miners, loggers and construction workers. Jack’s does not take reservations so be prepared for a wait as the place is almost always packed.
A must-see is the Sundial Bridge that crosses the Sacramento River. This unique structure combines a working sundial with a soaring suspension bridge. It offers strollers a spectacular view of the fast flowing Sacramento River The bridge connects the Turtle Bay Exploration Park a 300-acre cultural center that features a museum, playgrounds, wildlife center and botanical garden. Exploring the park takes about half a day, and after lunch you can head nine miles north on I-5 to one of the world’s largest dams. The 602-foot high Shasta Reservoir is California’s largest man-made lake and provides flood control and water storage. There are free guided tours year round that take less than three hours. House boating is a big pastime at the lake but if you’re interested make reservations before your trip.
Forbes listed Redding as a “Top 10 Trout Fishing Town in North America” the only city on the West Coast to earn that designation. Anglers travel from around the world in pursuit of steelhead trout. Redding and the Upper Sacramento River, the Pit River, Hat Creek, and McCloud River compare favorably with the likes of Bozeman, Missoula, West Yellowstone, and Jackson Hole as top fly-fishing locations and it’s a lot easier to get to.
Just 40 miles northeast of Redding is a wonderland of rivers, waterfalls, small towns and majestic vistas. One of my favorite routes allows you to visit four waterfalls in a day. Begin by going to Burney Falls via CA-299 East. The falls are in McArthur-Burney State Park that charges $10 per vehicle for day use.
The 129-foot high falls are uniquely beautiful. Foamy white streams of water rise from the park’s underground springs and tumble over ridges of dark basalt spotted with dark green moss and ferns into the mist-filled basin. National Geographic called the falls “one of northern California’s most spectacular” and Teddy Roosevelt said they were “the Eighth Wonder of the World.” You can view the falls from a lookout point steps from the parking lot but a greater experience awaits you if you take the easy hike to the base of the falls. Feel the 42-degree mist float into you from the 100 million gallons a day that descend from above. The geology here is the key: the falls’ cliffs were formed by volcanic eruptions then molded into fantastic shapes by water erosion. Such a spectacular setting attracts many visitors and is best visited on weekdays during off-seasons. An early start ensures the best opportunity for a quiet embrace of this natural wonder. This is just the first stop on your waterfall tour, and falling water awaits you just 40 minutes away at the McCloud River Falls. Take California 89 north to the lower McCloud falls. Turn on the signed road for the McCloud River Loop. Continue for 0.7 miles. Stay right at the first intersection (turning left leads to Middle and Upper Falls). Pass the Fowlers Camp campground and turn left into the signed parking lot for the Lower Falls picnic area. You are in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest.
The McCloud River Trail passes three beautiful waterfalls as it winds through a canyon of basalt lava rock. The paths are well maintained and you won’t have to scramble up rocks, although there is moderate elevation gain. The four-mile round trip loop is rated easy to moderate. Beginning at the Lower Falls parking lot, take the paved path by the kiosk. You will immediately arrive at the Lower Falls, where a stone staircase leads to the water’s edge. After enjoying the scene, follow the path as it winds along the riverbank toward the Middle and Upper Falls. There are plenty of places to stop and enjoy a picnic and dip your toes in the water. Each waterfall has its own unique beauty. Look for cranes and egrets fishing in the water, hawks soaring overhead and bluebirds frolicking among colorful wildflowers lining the path. Spectacular views of Mt. Shasta appear almost magically through the Jeffry Pines as you hike. Don’t miss the informational displays at the Falls’ overlooks, which explain the natural and historic history of the area.
The town of McCloud is just five miles away and offers spectacular views of Mt. Shasta. It is said Shasta makes its own weather and that certainly seems true by observing the constantly changing clouds that swirl around it. The old railroad and lumber center “was a true company town, as everything in the town was owned by the McCloud River Lumber Company and provided for the exclusive use of its employees.” McCloud features the historic McCloud Hotel that dates to 1916, the era of the lumber barons. The woodwork in the hotel is an exemplar of an time that valued craftsmanship. The Hotel has two restaurants featuring the de rigueur features of modern dining, craft cocktails and local brews. Down Main Street is the McCloud Meat Market and Tavern, located in its own historic structure, the 1897 McCloud Mercantile Building. There’s a large porch that allows an excellent view of Main Street where not much at all goes on. It’s a hangout for the locals that features huge salads, steaks and burgers. You probably want to split a meal unless you have been chopping trees down all day. There’s a full bar and a decent wine list. You are on McCloud time here so don’t expect to get in and out in a hurry. After dinner, a walk around town reveals old train engines and cabooses sitting silently on side streets.
The trip back to Redding from McCloud is just 70 miles, but you can spend at least a day on a leisurely trip. Departing McCloud take Highway 89 and head toward Dunsmuir. Along the way you can stop in the town of Mt. Shasta, just a 15 minute drive from McCloud. For a pleasant breakfast atop at the Seven Suns Coffee and Café. Once again expect large servings. Explore the town that is less than nine miles from southwest of Mt. Shasta. Pleasant hiking can be found on the Spring Hill Trail, The Gateway Trail, and many other paths that lead up the slopes of the mountain. More serious hikers can head up the rocky Black Butte Trailhead in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest, 204 West Alma, Mount Shasta. The Mount Shasta Trail Association warns that the trail is in “dangerous condition” and those fearful of heights are advised to avoid it.
Leaving Shasta Take 89 to highway 5 and head south. More waterfalls and vibrant railroad history can be found in Dunsmuir. Dunsmuir started as a railroad town because it was located at a spot where the elevation begins to rise. In the days of steam engines additional “helper” engines were added to pull the cars. 
That’s no longer the case today, but this quaint railroad town of 1,500 is still a stop for Amtrak’s Coast Starlight passenger trains that links Seattle and Los Angeles. You can still see the old turntable in the depot located in the Historic Commercial District.
You will be surprised to find dining options is such a small town. Locals rave about “YAKS on the 5” (I-5). The family-owned restaurant’s motto is “Ooohh….My Goodness” and after a meal you’ll know why. The menu features chicken, fish and enormous burgers. You can also enjoy mountains of fries and onion rings, augmented with “sticky buns” and a bakery stuffed with goodies baked daily. You can eat inside or in the large back area where the trees are festooned with many humorous signs. Those in search of a fine dining experience will find it in Café Maddalena near the old railroad depot. It features “fresh Mediterranean cuisine, with flavors from Spain, France, Italy and North Africa.” Reservations are recommended as this is a hot spot for foodies traveling I-5.
Dunsmuir is one of the few towns in America with a waterfall in a city park. Hedge Creek Park houses the delightful Hedge Creek Falls which offers the unusual opportunity to walk behind the cascading water. The hike from the parking area to the falls is easy down and back. Much tougher to reach is Mossbrae Falls. You have to cross a Union Pacific Railroad trestle with live tracks, always a dangerous situation, plus you are trespassing. The best thing to do is find some locals who can guide you in safely.
One of the more unique lodging opportunities is the 48-acre Railroad Park Resort just south of Dunsmuir. Located at the base of Castle Crags, a series of granite spires that tower into the sky, the Resort seems a place alone in the world. There are cabins and RV and tent campsites, but the main attraction is the 23 beautifully restored cabooses that dot the property. The bar and restaurant is in a railroad car where antique hand tools, gauges, classic pictures and signals remind you of the glory days of railroading. Kids and rail fans love this place, and it’s a good idea to secure your room in advance.
That’s a brief look at “Superior California.” It’s a world away from California’s more celebrated vacation spots. There are no theme parks or movie stars hanging out here, but lots of natural beauty, wonderful people and a land of wonders all its own.